January 17, 2020

Let's talk about retinol

Let's talk about retinol

What is Retinol?

Retinol aka Vitamin A is a cosmetic molecule, which for years has been the subject of studies comparable to those regulating drugs.

Retinol improves the renewal of epidermis cells, boost collagen synthesis and GAG (glycosaminoglycans), which hyaluronic acid is a part of, act on Langerhans cells, key cells of skin immune deficit, but also regulate melanocytes and oppose metalloproteins, which are responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin.

Retinol acts both on the surface, at the level of the epidermis and dermis. It has positive effects on deep fine lines, premature sun damage and skin texture.

On the surface, it has an exfoliating effect that smoothes skin’s texture and promotes radiance. It stimulates cell renewal, which decreases with aging, and thus, results in a (slight) thickening of the epidermis.

In the dermis, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, increases the level of hyaluronic acid and reduces the destruction of existing collagen. As a result, it is a very good anti-wrinkle, but also regulates dark spots and helps with even complexion.

Since all these actions have been scientifically proven, dermatologists have made Retinol their favourite molecule, along with vitamin C and AHA.

Except for vitamin C, no molecules are known to have such visible and effective action on the signs of age.

Don't be scared of retinol

Until recently, people with sensitive skin could not use retinol because of its irritating effects. Today, retinol has been reworked, associated with anti-inflammatory agents and compatibility between active ingredients is more than ever monitored.

The “effective” concentration of the molecule can also cause irritations. Formulators believe that, in order to see results, cosmetic retinol needs to be dosed at 0.3%. However, at this concentration, sensitive skins can't handle it. It was therefore necessary to find a method to obtain this same concentration, but gradually release it into the skin, in order for the skin to adapt to it.

It is advisable to use Retinol in the evening to avoid photosensitivity, a heightened skin sensitivity or an unusual reaction when your skin is exposed to UV radiation from sunlight or a tanning bed. .

Because Retinol stimulates cell renewal to produce new skin cells; the new skin that develops is more delicate and thinner and therefore should not be exposed directly to sunlight. It is also wiser for this reason to start a retinol routine in winter. You should always use a strong sunscreen protection but especially if you use retinol.